“According to the legend, once the columns were separated by Hercules and the seas came together as one, the oracle commands an arrow to signal where the future civilizations are to be established.”
Hercules then picks up his bow and shoots his arrow. It flies across the blue water and lands on a rocky embankment near the top of the Bay of Cádiz … in a location which would later become the city of Rota.
While this may not be exactly how legend dictates – it is commonly thought that the arrow landed in one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities such as Cádiz city – the artists in Rota have taken creative liberties to highlight the unique legends and folklore of this area against its historical and geographical importance.
The more than 15 art installations around the city are the work of the group, Intervenciones en Rota. The group draws on legends, history, pop culture, and geography to create art primarily within the old inner city of Rota, Spain.
The phrase above is from a plaque located in the rocky embankment across from the Hotel Duque de Nájera. “la fecha,” or Hercules’s arrow, is where our tour guide Juan Varela Rodríguez starts his tour. He explained that across the bay, Cádiz city is approximately 3,000 years old and based on that fact, one can make the assumption that Rota’s founding is from a similar time period, hence the reason for Hercules’s arrow falling at the base of Rota.
Proximity to the ocean – and by extension, the fish, work, and trade routes that came with it – was a primary reason for the establishment of Rota. Many of the art installations are dedicated to this element of Rota’s history. Near Plaza Barroso, there is “a las puertas del barrio marinero,” or “at the gateway of the fisherman’s quarter.” Tucked on a side street heading towards Rota’s marina are starfish drifting upwards on the whitewashed building. The artist wanted to pay homage to the fishermen’s souls as they reincarnate as starfish and then upwards toward the sky. The starfish are painted with a special paint that after staring at them for some time, they “appear” on dark nights to be in the sky mimicking their souls in the heavens.
While the fishermen made their way to the ocean for their day’s work, the merchants would look towards the water awaiting the return of their ships. Similar to Cádiz, Rota also had several merchant watchtowers during the time of the new world trade route; many of which have since been removed or destroyed. The artist’s installation “nadadoras en la azotea,” or “swimmers on rooftop” above the Plaza de Merced face the water similar to the merchants of years past.
The merchant towers are again memorialized with “la torre del caracol” or “the snail tower” located near Calle Caracol in Rota. The group of snails climb up the side of the building where the former snail tower was located. In addition to the merchant past, snails were selected since they are a popular springtime delicacy in this area.
Weaving our way through the streets of Rota, the legends continue with the “marea baja/atlantida” or “low tide/Atlantida.” The entrance of Atlantis, according to a National Geographic article, is thought to be near the entrance of Guadaquivir River, located by Sanlucar de Barrameda. The mythological face on the side of the building is surrounded by sea shells and seaweed paying respect to the rising and falling of the ocean.
In particular, the low tide provided locals with fish through the use of corrales, an old form of fishing pens that utilize the tides to catch fish and other sea life dating back to the Roman or Muslim times. Rota’s eight corrales located near Hotel Playa de la Luz are still owned, operated, and maintained by local families.
Down a tiny inner street and above a local restaurant sits “oceano” or “ocean” – a body with a fish tail. Typically this type of art would include a Titan’s tail from the underwater king, King Titan. However, during a Roman excavation in Rota, a ring was discovered with a fish tail instead so the artist chose to represent this piece of local history. Even the colors were intentional with the use of brilliant Yves Klein blue to symbolize the brilliant ocean and the two fish are golden referring to the Rota’s location on the costa de la luz, or coast of light.
In addition to the ocean, one installation features Eolo, Greek god of wind. Down a small street and perched above the upper rooftsop balcony of a home, Eolo pays reverence to the two winds – poniente, or the western wind, and levante, or the eastern wind – which dictates many aspects of daily life for roteños.
While much of the art is steeped in history and mythology, there are also several highlighting pop culture and modern references. Probably the most famous one amongst Spaniards and Americans alike would be “besame en este esquina” or “kiss me in this corner.”
While several cities in Andalucia have since added their own corner, Rota can lay claim to the original. The group’s inspiration was that typical street names are boring and by changing the name to something amusing and fun, they could alter an everyday occurrence.
The original location was on an inner street with brightly colored flower pots hanging on white-washed walls with a view towards the Castillo de Luna. It was just another art installation by the group until 2014 when Spanish singer Alejandro Sanz posted a photo on his social media account with the street putting Rota and this art installation on the international stage.
Its popularity soon brought people from all over the world to the street to see, and kiss, in that spot. The downside was its popularity ultimately forced the installation to be moved to a less disruptive location (now Rota boardwalk).
Some of the other more pop culture art installations include the flamenco-clad, machismo-challenging “la duende volé” by Pilar Albarracin or “SOS” or “mayday” on Rota’s lighthouse. The lighthouse also includes the installation, “la barca sin puerto” or “boat without port,” to highlight the struggle of refugees and their rights. The boat is filled with rocks collected by school children to place in the boat symbolizing the burdens of refugees.
“La amigdalitis de Tarzan” or “Tarzan’s tonsillitis” consists of a small statue of a man and woman separated by several buildings. The installation is based on the book by Peruvian author Alfredo Bryce-Echenique about a couple who could only communicate through letters. Love letters being two-way, the group sought to involve the Rota community. They launched a social media competition for the best love letters. The community submitted letters as well as voted for the top one. The top letter was made into a tile and placed at the end of the Plaza Barroso called “concurso de cartas de amor.”
While the town of Rota has hosted the American base since the 1950s, its history of diversity extends further back in time. Throughout the years, Rota has been home to Phoenicians, Romans, Spanish, Muslims, Americans, and more. To highlight diversity – in all aspects including religious, cultural, and sexual orientation – the group installed “puertas abiertas” or “open doors.” The installation is set on the upper portion of a traditional 18th century oyster stone door near Plaza de España and was dedicated on June 28 which coincided with Pride day.
Possibly the most expansive art installation in Rota is calabazas, or pumpkins. Approximately 10 years ago, this group won a grant to create the art installation to enhance the city. The Cádiz grant money allowed them to create the ceramic pumpkins to be placed in the streets, as well as outsource the two bronze pumpkins at the fountain by the Castillo de Luna and Iglesia de la O.
The group selected pumpkins due to their notoriety and history with Rota. This area has poor soil and irrigation yet the pumpkins from Rota’s mayeteria, or traditional farms, are considered some of the best in Spain. The farmers had to water each plant daily causing their backs to be hunched over from the grueling work. The result of their hard effort was pumpkins grown near the sea and sweetened by placing them on the roofs of the homes.
Today, there are over 125 ceramic pumpkins – and growing – clustered throughout the inner maze-like tiny streets of the city. The pumpkins can be seen on rooftops, clustered on whitewashed walls, and overlooking plazas. Most of the pumpkins are the work of a local artist, but one location just off the Plaza de España is a collaboration with the local AFANAS organization. The group worked with AFANAS, an organization of disabled persons, to create and paint the numerous pumpkins located on the wall.
This pride in their history and heritage is evident in the pumpkin’s prominence in daily life. Not just the pumpkins scatter around the city streets or the pumpkin ceramics available for purchase in local stores, but the annual calabaza del oro award presented to a roteño each year or the sweet treat called mayetito sold in many of the local pastry and bread shops. Roteños keep taking their shared history and re-imagining it into modern day commemorations.
Ultimately, it’s the legends that provide the most inspiration and tell the story of Rota. One legend describes an event from the 17th century where pirates were approaching Rota preparing to attack it. As the pirates got closer to Rota they noticed there were many people on the top of the buildings watching the sea. Frightened that they had been seen, the pirates continued on to another destination. Little did they know that the “heads” were only the pumpkins sitting on the roofs of the houses sweetening in the hot Andalusian sun.
While no one will ever truly know if the story is factual or purely fictional, this playfulness of using art to tell the story of Rota – its history, legends and folklore – inspires one to wander a bit deeper into the streets of Rota.
“Live Your Best Life” is a phrase frequently used by Naval Station (NAVSTA) Rota’s Commanding Officer Capt. David Baird. This series of travel pieces will feature opportunities to get outside the gates and into the local culture. The series will primarily focus on destinations located within day trip or overnight from the installation.
Date Taken: | 07.29.2021 |
Date Posted: | 07.29.2021 05:56 |
Story ID: | 401975 |
Location: | ROTA, ES |
Web Views: | 559 |
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This work, Living Your Best Life Series: Legends, Folklore, & Pop Culture - Rota Art Installation Project, by Courtney Pollock, identified by DVIDS, must comply with the restrictions shown on https://www.dvidshub.net/about/copyright.