A hush rolls over the crowd as the first notes of horns in a mournful marching tune are sounded. The steady beat of the drum sets the pace for procession of nazarenos as they begin filing down the street with their incense and candles. Suddenly, a large float comes into view as it rounds the corner of a narrow street in Rota gently swaying side-to-side to the drum’s beat.
Regardless of your religious background, experiencing Semana Santa, or holy week, in Andalucia is something not to be missed while stationed at Naval Station (NAVSTA) Rota. For Spain, Semana Santa and its processions are steeped in religious reverence but are equally an intense, moving cultural experience.
The processions began over 500 years ago to tell the story of the Passion, or final days, of Jesus Christ. Since literacy was not common during those times, visual interpretations called pasos, or statues, were used. The concept being similar to the art, statues and stained glass windows in churches teaching people about the stories of the Bible.
These pasos are carried on large, lavishly decorated floats and carried by members of the hermandad or brotherhood, called costaleros. They receive their name from the protective white garment they wear to protect their head while carrying these heavy floats. As a spectator, you will typically only see the slow shuffle of the costaleros’ feet beneath the float as they pass.
The procession begins at the church where the statue is housed year-round. The first step is expertly removing from the church and into the street, which at some churches require the members underneath the float to shuffle on their knees with only a few inches to clear the door frame before dramatically raising to upright position. The crowd’s intense silence as they move through the door erupt in cheers and clapping for the successful maneuver.
Afterwards, the float begins its slow passage through the streets ranging from a few hours to several hours. The float is typically accompanied by a band, clergymen, and the cloaked nazarenos of the brotherhood carrying candles, incense, and religious relics.
Perhaps most jarring for Americans attending their first Semana Santa procession is the attire of nazarenos. Long robes with tall pointed hoods are typically a sight that cause Americans to pause. However, there is no nefarious meanings behind these robes and no connection with the American Ku Klux Klan. For nazarenos, the attire simply allows them to repent for their sins while keeping their identity concealed.
People gather along the sides of the streets awaiting the pasos’ arrival. As it passes, the atmosphere goes quiet, solemn and for some, emotional. After it’s passed, you’ll see family and friends head to a bar for tapas or drink, children playing in the streets, or some rushing ahead to another point on the procession path to catch the pasos going by again.
Semana Santa processions kick off on Palm Sunday, or the Sunday prior to Easter, and continue throughout the week highlighting the final days of Jesus Christ. The processions take place at different times with some starting mid-day or early evening while others do not leave until well after midnight.
The local towns of Rota and El Puerto de Santa Maria have gorgeous floats while still maintaining a small town feel. For larger processions, head to Jerez de la Frontera, Seville, or Malaga; however, planning ahead and arriving early for the larger cities’ processions is essential since many have are paid seating areas and designated crossing locations.
The pageantry and religious reverence of Holy Week processions in Andalucia should not to be missed during your time in Rota. It’s sure to leave a mark on you long after you leave Spain!
| Date Taken: | 04.07.2022 |
| Date Posted: | 04.07.2022 04:08 |
| Story ID: | 418006 |
| Location: | ES |
| Web Views: | 135 |
| Downloads: | 0 |
This work, The Pageantry of Semana Santa in Andalucia, by Courtney Pollock, identified by DVIDS, must comply with the restrictions shown on https://www.dvidshub.net/about/copyright.
